Kevin's BBQ Joints

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BBQ Joints > Missouri

Smokestack BBQ

8920 Wornall Rd
Kansas City, MO 64114

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June 15, 2011, 7:39 p.m.

A Tail of Two Piggies

Russ and Flora's likenesses should be carved on KC's BBQ Mt Smokemore - if only we had one. From their loins, and kitchens, have come two of KC's best BBQ operations. In the 70s, Big Brother Jack Fiorella took his talents to the Southside (Martin City) and opened what is now known as Fiorella's Jack Stack. Sister Mary Fiorella shouldered the family mantle and now her son Ben runs the "original" restaurant.

Quaint, but dated, this location shows its quarter century age. Two waitresses and a bus boy competently manage the 20 or so tables which are packed at lunch time. I ordered my default brisket and sausage. Gangbusters! The sausage was lightly smoked, medium grind, robust beefy taste. The brisket was well smoked and tender as San Francisco fog. The fries were definitive. If the sauce was better, I'd be hanging 5 stars on Ye Old Smokestack. Their sauce is vinegar / paprika with a little tomato product, maybe catsup - not much sweet. I asked if they had spicy sauce and was told what I got with my sandwich was spicy. No. This was a quite tame version. On the high end of the lunch price range, sandwich, fries, soda, tax, tip ran $13. "Short Stack" sandwich itself was $8.99.

With only one location and no flair for the moderne, Smokestack is trailing competitors (especially big brother) in the social consciousness. Nonetheless a 50 year legacy is being upheld and honored daily on backwater Wornall.